2021 Château d’Or et de Gueules Les Cimels Rouge
I have been working with this winery since early 21st century and it is only getting better and better. One of my favorite wines in the world for the money. The 2021 Les Cimels incorporates 30% of that old vine Carignan (now over 80 years old), and it makes a world of difference. Aromas of an herbal nature, forest floor, lush undergrowth, mushroomy, black olive tapenade, black tea and cracked pepper waft from the glass. The wine’s fruitiness is not of a plummy nature, it’s more on the savory side, more in line with the olivey notes in the bouquet. The palate is medium-full with great balance and lithe tannins. It is a Rhone wine, so there is juicy purple and black fruit at its core, but its complexity makes it a standout.
It must be the Carignan. Back in 1998, Diane de Puymorin purchased Chateau d’Or et de Gueules, or “Red and Gold” in the Occitan dialect. She was strongly advised to rip up her Carignan vineyard in favor of re-planting it with more “noble” varieties such as Grenache and Syrah. Diane disagreed with her advisors, pointing out that the Carignan vines at the time were over 60 years old! She insisted on keeping them because they would help add complexity to her blends.